I am amazed that this little route had changed so little in the last 80 years or so.

Fraser's Hill was named after an adventurer and prospector James Louis Fraser who used to buy tin from Chinese prospectors and transported the ore to Kuala Kubu by mule train. However, in the early 1900's, J.L. Fraser was reported missing and was never to be heard from again. In 1910, Bishop Ferguson-Davie from Singapore tried to search for Fraser but failed. In the process however, he discovered a perfect mountain retreat which he persuaded the authorities to develop as a colonial hill station. Subsequently, with enough support from the authorities, a road was built linking Bentong / Kuantan road to Fraser's Hill. The link was completed when another route was built to link Fraser Hill to Kuala Kubu.

Typically, our loop would start from Sungai Buloh overhead-bridge R&R, a popular north-bound rest stop along the North-South Expressway with ample parkings and clean restrooms. The usually cool morning air makes the fast ride along the expressway pleasing. We normally dart into Tangjung Malim exit to jump into Kuala Kubu Road. Curiously, there is a road sign distinctly showing the road name in English. It used to be a common trunk road (interstate Route 1) heading for Ipoh, Penang or Alor Star from Kuala Lumpur before the North-South Expressway was completed. Incidentally, Tanjung Malim is famous for its pau (a type of Chinese bun). The decades old restaurant, Yik Mun is located alongside the main trunk road-main town interchange. The uniqueness about this shop is the multiracial clientele enjoying their food together. Of course, our harmonious, multiracial motorcyclists could happily munching the famous Yik-Mun’s halal pau together or sample the family’s secret recipe of oriental chicken chop.

Passing through Kuala Kubu Baru town would lead to the old Fraser Hill Road (National Route 55). The only flat section of the loop is the road along Sungai Selangor Dam. The fairly new dual carriageway road alongside the lake is a joy to ride. Most motorcyclists would have blast through this short stretch with triple digits speeds but I would recommend riding this road out slowly whist enjoying the breath-taking views of the lake and dam.

Right after the unique metal bridge over Chiling river, the adventurers at heart can opt for a short detour to Sungai Chiling Sanctuary, a heaven for nature lovers. Widely touted as the most beautiful waterfall in the State of Selangor, Chiling Falls offers a sensuous gateaway easily accessed by general public.

Riding on, the old Frasier trunk road would take us to the world of multiple tight and twisty curves that can easily take both the rider and motorcyle to the limit. Traffic on most Sunday mornings here is usually light and most of us would take full advantage of it to enjoy the old Brit road builders' creation. These road builders of the past tried to take the easiest way around by turning and twisting and finally cresting the pass at one of the “gaps” in the mountain. Gap, an old foothill station with a charming colonial-era rest house, is an ideal rest stop to rest that stiff backs and aching wrists after 147 km of riding. The rest house used to serve mouth-watering Hainanese chicken chops. These days, the kitchen churns out measly toast bread and fried meehon.  Incidentally, the rest house is undergoing major revamping and hopefully, its new management would revive the old glory days of Gap Rest House

Fraser Hill is now connected with two individual roads thus making the trek up to the hill a lot more convenient. Gone are the days where we had to wait for turns to use the old single-lane road to the hill. However, due to unknown reasons, the new up-bound road is now closed for repairs. So much for spending millions of tax-payers money building the road in the first place.

Riding up to Fraser Hill is an easy affair, if the road is dry. Unless it is a holiday weekend, the main town is mostly deserted saved for some weekend holiday makers and golfers, a far cry from its heydays 20 years ago. Riding back to the foothill and on to the Gap-Bentong road is another 10 minutes affair, maybe faster if the rider is a master of riding around the curvy roads.

The Gap-Bentong segment remains an profoundly rich experience. It is completely paved yet feels somewhat treacherous. Afterall, the road faithfully remains original with little improvement over the years. The road is fantastic for all types of riding. Many stretches offer sweeping curves that are challenging with little margin for errors. All are hugely scenic and deliver the riders an assortment of incredible motobiking related feelings.

Riding on for another 46 km or so would take us to Bentong. According to an old story, Bentong was previously known as Kapong. From a story according to Pak Zek (Dato’ Haji Zakaria bin Hitam), the name Bentong originated from ‘Bapong’ (meaning float). Bentong was once used as a fort by Dato’ Bahaman. The British army sent over the Gurkhas mercenary to defeat Dato’ Bahaman to take over the area. However, a number of the Gurkhas were killed after they were ambushed by Dato’ Bahaman’s men. Their bodies were thrown into the river and floated in the water. Following the incident, the site was known as Bapong, and later known as Bentong.

Incidentally, Bentong is famous for durains. Riding in durian season, you see durains stalls practially everywhere. Not stopping to sample the local durains would be considered a crime. Bentong offers another heavenly escape to the tropical heat. About 5 km before Bentong town, there is a sign indicating a slip road to Chamang Waterfalls. Detouring into this 10 km of narrow paved road that would lead us through a chinese village and a forest reserve. Chamang Waterfalls is one of most ferocious looking falls and yet offers easy access to visitors who dislike trekking. We could virtually park our bikes next to the falls to enjoy refreshing cold dips.

Kedai Kopi Kow Po is another favourite stop for refreshments and lite bites. Located in downtown Bentong, the famous coffee shop serves excellent ice creams and desserts like chendol and ABC (crush ice with syrup)

There are two ways to get back to Kuala Lumpur from Bentong. The easiest option is of course hopping into Karak Highway with Kuala Kumpur approximately 80 km away. The other is the old Bentong-Gombak road hugging the river bank which would lead to Gombak.

For bikers, the old road is fun route to get back to the city. It's a snaky single lane road that rises and falls with the gentle undulations of the South Titiwangsa Mountain Range. Breathtaking views connect the sweeping tree-lined segments, and quaint little kampungs break up the ride along the way. A hot spring, although a little rundown, along the way with another unnamed waterfalls can be seen from the main road. The only shortcoming of the road is the excesses of trucks that ply the narrow road and occasional L-license drivers on white Kancils rambling around with little concern to incoming traffic. So take your time. Bikers could either continue the ride on the old road to Kuala Lumpur or slip off at Janda Baik to join into Karak Highway.

About 1 km on the old road after Janda Baik, there an interesting path that leads to the top cliff over looking the Karak Highway. The weak of heart should, at the least, avoid looking down but the view of the Highway is simply breathtaking. Riding on the final stretch of the old Gombak road, you'll reach Gombak, which I found to be the most inviting frontier town in the area with an Orang Asli settlement and a surprisingly interesting Orang Asli Muzium.

There is no doubt the loop is worth every second of a biker’s time. There are many, many pullouts that allow you to enjoy the ride on the colonial-era built roads. A superb recipe for a biker’s Sunday goof.

In memory of my beloved Grandmother, Mdm How Neoh (1914-2009)
Ah Ma, I am going to miss you very much.